Saturday, December 16, 2006

WINE for the WINO

Chico and I went to a little pizza/empanada restaurant last night for a bite. We ordered vino tinto de la casa and the waiter actually opened it, poured it into a glass for Chico, and had him taste it first. This is a 3 pesos bottle of wine! I am so impressed (while slightly amused)!
I am going to miss wine the most when I eventually leave Argentina. No where in the states would you be able to buy a 3 pesos bottle of GREAT malbec. That's right... good wine is actually cheaper than a bottle of aqua sin gas. This is the one thing I don't feel guilty about purchasing when I'm low on pesos in my pocket. So I'm off to buy another bottle. And for those of you who will notice what time I'm posting this... so what?

Thursday, December 14, 2006

MOVIE UPDATE

We can't find the DVD we rented. So now I am going to have to pay 30 pesos for a movie that never worked in the 1st place.

Monday, December 11, 2006

OH DEAR GOD, THERE IS FLAVOR (and Jesus) HERE!

Cancun Mexican Restaurant in San Telmo (on Defensa near Chile). Sweet mother of Jesus. They actually use spices in the food. This is heaven... absolute heaven!

On another note, I finally made it to Tierra Santa. This is something that shouldn't be passed up by any tourist/expat. I understand that it is supposed to be taken seriously, and I sincerely apologize for offending anyone, but come on! This is brilliant (I'm acting British again). I still am under the impression that the man who designed this theme park was taking LSD for a week straight. The giant (18 meters high) Jesus that rises every 30 minutes is magnificent! The people who sit on benches and applaud this are magnificent. Something like this would be a complete flop in the US or the UK. It says something about the different cultures for sure. On our way out though, we saw a couple coming in on a very obvious (and nervous) first date. I don't know if I would have proposed to Chico, or never talked to him again, had he suggested this to me on our first date.

Tuesday, December 05, 2006

I'M REALLY TRYING HERE.

Yesterday was a long work day. All I wanted to do last night was rent a movie, put on my pj's, and have a glass of wine before bed. We walked down to the movie rental store after dinner. I really need to describe this for those of you back in the states who only have had the "Blockbuster experience".
There is a little, tiny video rental place down the street. They keep it looked at all times (apparently had a little bit of bad history there), so you knock and if you look nice enough they buzz you in. They have DVD and VHS movie covers lining the wall in no particular order. So you go through them, pick one out, and ask the guy at the front desk (who I must emphasize is the nicest man) for the movie serial number. They go into the drawer behind the counter and pull out your selection. Then you pay the 4 pesos charge when you return the movie. Great deal. Easy enough.
We rented the DaVinci Code. A complete knock-off, blatantly pirated version, of the DaVinci Code. There was no sound until the 3rd scene and even then it skipped so many times we finally turned it off.
If this had only happened once, or even twice I would just chuck it up to bad luck. But this is the third time. All I wanted was to watch a movie!

Monday, December 04, 2006

ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT, MATE!

How is it that I moved to Buenos Aires, Argentina and most of my friends are English? So instead of picking up Spanish, most of my vocabulary now consists of British slang. Last night I found myself describing someone as being a total legend although it seemed this person had been on a quite a bender. Bloody hell, it just gets worse. We happened to be at a rather dodgy bar but the chopps and monkey nuts were good. So good that I was rather pissed when we called for a cab.
Chico, on the other hand, told the cab driver "Bueno" when he stopped the car in front of our door. Chico paid him, was thanked, and then responded with, "No, por favor". He is doing SO much better than I.

Saturday, December 02, 2006

Summertime and the livin' is easy

God, I love summer! Having lived in San Diego for 4 years, I got used to it being 73 degrees, day after day, no matter what season you were in. But the nights would get chilly and I would always have to bring a sweater out. Last night Chico and I strolled down to Plaza Dorrego for a chopp of Quilmes and to listen to some Tango. It was so warm I was able to wear shorts and a tank top (I have to forgo the flip flops... too many cockroaches scurrying around). The weather was perfect! I haven't seen any signs that Christmas is around the corner though, except the Christmas tree in front of Jumbo. This will be my first Christmas away from home. I guess as long as I don't see reminders of what I'm missing, I won't be as homesick...

Took a walk down Chile in San Telmo the other night, and on the door of Chile 672 was a movie poster for the film (appropriately titled) Chile 672. Has anyone heard of this? Where is it playing other than the film festivals that I've already missed?

And finally for the big news...
I got a job. The wonderful thing is that it involves working with utilities/energy which is something I have done previously. I'm enjoying it- especially the part that I work from home and can make my own schedule. Also having done this before makes it a little easier to get (and stay) motivated.

Chau!

Wednesday, November 29, 2006


TIERRA SANTA? THANKS, I THINK I'LL GOLF INSTEAD


Awhile back, while I was still living in beautiful San Diego and Chico was already in Buenos Aires, he phoned me to tell me he was going to Tierra Santa, a religious theme park. I cannot fully express how great I thought this was, and how badly I wanted to go the second I arrived. I had Chico describe the entire park in great detail on numerous occasions which only quantified my want and need for Tierra Santa. So time went by, I moved to Buenos Aires, and the perfect day fell upon us. We convinced our friend, Mark that this was going to be fun and dragged him out of bed early one Tuesday for the cab ride across town. The cab dropped us off in front of the Pearly Gates that separated us from the giant statue of Jesus rising out of a plastic mountain every 45 minutes.

It was closed.

We swallowed our tears and went golfing.

Golfing Argentina style:

1 broken golf club (club literally fell off mid-swing)

2 finger wags ("No-no, Chico")

and

4 attempts at collecting bar tab ("La cuenta? Si, si").
We'll try Tierra Santa next week.

Saturday, November 25, 2006

WEEK 2 OF NO INTERNET

There are a couple things that I've wanted to write about all week. Unfortunately until now, I haven't had a chance. I came down with a horrible sinus infection last night and feel like I got ran over by a bus. I'm home alone, not a darn thing on TV, no couch to lay on, and I'm almost out of Kleenex (which, by the way, has anyone heard of Kleenex con aroma??? This is the most brilliant invention EVER and until I came to AR, I had never seen it). So please excuse this post if it seems a bit all over the place...

Last Friday we went to a new Cuban Cigar bar called Gran Vega. This is a beautiful spot in Palermo... a bit on the pricey side, but worth it. I strongly suggest ordering a Ron Collins, a Montecristo cigar, sitting back on the leather couch, listening to some Cuban music, and snacking on fried plantains and olives.

Chico and I had Thanksgiving at our apartment for a few friends. We ordered a turkey at our local poultry shop, and went to Jumbo for everything else. This was our menu: turkey, stuffing, gravy, mashed potatoes, rolls, cranberry sauce (we found cranberry sauce!!), creamed corn, and apple strudel for dessert. Despite getting the turkey frozen solid the day of, not having a temperature gage on the oven, and never cooking Thanksgiving dinner before, I think it went pretty well.

And to top off a pretty good week... my best friend just booked her ticket to come visit us in January.

And now I really need to watch TV.

Buenos noche- chau!

Friday, November 17, 2006

3 TIMES A WEEK= ONCE A WEEK

No... I really have so much to write about, it's just that my laptop decided to stop connecting to the Internet. I have no idea why and no idea how to fix it, so until I can find a computer repair shop (preferably one that speaks English and won't cost me millions of pesos), I am forced to beg Chico for use of his. So... my Argentine readers... if you have anyone you can recommend, I'd be eternally grateful!!

Friday, November 10, 2006


Well, it was bound to happen. Chico has decided to join the blogging. I'll include his link on my list of favorites, but just out of obligation.
No... actually, I'm interested to read what he views the challenges and joys of living in Argentina are.

We just stopped by Jorge's and decided to try something new. Mil hojas. It is a dark brown pastry which seemed molasses or cocoa flavored, a little dulce de leche, and covered with meringue (picture above). When Chico asked him what it was called, he explained it to us and said that while the dessert is called "a thousand layers", his doesn't have quite that many. Maybe 800 or so.
The man never ceases to amaze me!!

Thursday, November 09, 2006


STENCIL GRAFFITI


This is one of the largest stencils I've seen yet at roughly 1 and a half feet long and 1 foot high (located in San Telmo). I have walked by this particular building every day for the past 2 months and noticed it for the first time the other night. And while I'm not quite sure what it means, I could take a couple good guesses.
These stencils are used by artists, advertisers, and activists rather than the 15 year old street punk that many people would seem to think. I have seen all different kinds, from advertising a local newspaper to promoting safe sex to a comparison of GWB to Mickey Mouse.
I have heard that stenciling emerged in BsAs around the time of the economic collapse of 2001. It probably has been around much longer, just not to the extent that it is now.
I should note that this practice is illegal in Buenos Aires. Most stenciling is done either at night or during one of the protests/demonstrations taking place elsewhere in the city.
I happen to really enjoy the wall stencils. I find some funny, some sad, and all thought provoking...
SIDEWALK ETIQUETTE - part 2

You might be on the 2nd or 3rd floor balcony of your home. But there are people who are on the sidewalk below you. This means you DO NOT toss dirty dishwater, or any other liquid, outside. This also means you DO NOT sweep garbage off of your balcony to fall on pedestrians below.

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

SIDEWALK ETIQUETTE

I live in the beautiful and historic neighborhood of San Telmo where the streets are cobblestone and the sidewalks narrow.
And by narrow, I mean NARROW.
And since the vast majority of people who walk on these sidewalks have never heard of the sidewalk etiquette, I am going to post a few highlights:
1) When in a group of 3 or more and stopped for whatever reason, please step aside from the middle of the sidewalk to allow others to pass by without themselves having to step into the street (as residents know, this is EXTREMELY dangerous to do with the buses from hell and the motorcycle mafia sharing the roads)
2) Pregnant, elderly, and disabled people should have the right of way.
3) When smoking on the sidewalk, it is not nice to flick your lit cigarette butt at passerbys.
4) When walking your dog, please carry a plastic baggy to pick up your dog's poo from the center of the sidewalk.
5) If walking with a friend(s), it is courteous to step aside and pause your conversation for a moment to allow others to also pass on the sidewalk.
6) If you like to walk with wide steps and arms spread out, please refrain from doing so if passing someone else.
7) Do NOT litter!! This just makes an already dirty city even dirtier!!

Friday, November 03, 2006

CORRECTION

I realized I posted something false. Actually, it could be true, but since I don't know for sure, I need to retract.
Des Nivel's meat man is Jorge. Not the singing waiter. The singing waiter could be named Jorge, but this piece of information has not been verified. In any case, I still love Jorge the meat man at Des Nivel and I still love the singing waiter who might be Jorge at Des Nivel.
RANDOM POSTS SINCE IT'S BEEN AWHILE

I'd like to say that the reason I haven't posted in so long is because I was travelling. Or found a job. But the truth is I got lazy this week. I was busy... in a way. My days did seem to fill up pretty quickly. So here are some of the things I've done and thought about doing for the past few days:

First of all... I went to my first Boca match. OH MY GOD. That is really all I am going to say until I try it one more time. Chico is trying to find out if he is a Boca or a River fan (and goes to both quite often) and this time he thought it would be fun to sit in the "absolutely insane" section. So after 6 elbow jabs to the skull, various bodily fluids flung onto me, and my post 12 hours of deafness, I think I'd like to check out River Plate.

Finally entertained some friends at our house... we have a beautiful patio that we need to use more. So the other night we had 6 guests for wine and hors devours before we went out for dinner. I had such a nice time... Oh- and we ate at Abril in San Telmo. Pretty good.

Spent a day in Palermo on Monday (combining work and play) and searched in vain for a coffee table. I never realized how important that piece of furniture is! I really want something cheap and nice... considering making on myself but with how busy my days have been I just don't know how I'll fit that in!! :) But anyway, Pompeya doesn't have anything close to what I'm looking for, so I thought I'd try those unfinished furniture shops. Nada.

Went to Chinatown the other day. And here is something for American Expats: Supermercada Casa China. Our shopping basket included 3 bottles of ranch dressing. And they have tomato juice. Oh yes, it is true!

Had my first solo (without the help of any friends) conversation in Spanish!! I stopped to get a choripan for lunch the other day. Jorge, our meat man recognized me and I actually surprised myself with how much I understood and was able to say. Which is still next to zero, of course. But it lasted about 10 minutes, which was pretty cool. Which reminds me of 2 subtopics:

... how much I love every single Jorge I meet. There is Jorge the meat man (Chico thinks he wears the only visor in the city. That is a somewhat strange observation to me, but he may be onto something here), Jorge the baker (who is open today after taking a vacation last week and us being in Uruguay the week before), and Jorge the waiter at Des Nivel. Who, by the way, is in the Lonely Planet guide. I need his autograph before I leave here!!
...how much I love choripan. How can something so relatively simple be so extraordinarily good?

Bue 2006!! Starts today and I have tickets for both days! I am so excited!! Mostly for the beastie boys, amadou et mariam, and dj shadow. I have no idea how I am going to stay awake for this- dj shadow doesn't go on until 2:30AM!! I'm really interested to see the venue. Not sure if it is inside or outside (guessing outside?) and whether or not they will sell drinks (water at least).

So that's my week summed up in a few paragraphs. I'll work on being more diligent in the weeks to come.
Chau for now!!

Friday, October 27, 2006

Our plumbing is fixed!!
For the first time since Tuesday, I didn't step out of the tub with blisters from the hot water.

Thursday, October 26, 2006

WHY I AM HAPPY TO BE BACK IN BUENOS AIRES

Des Nivel.

I don't think Chico and I said one word to each other over dinner last night except, "please pass the salt" and "should we order one more bottle of wine?" Des Nivel (in San Telmo) has the best lomo, chorizo, puree de papas, provolonetta, and tinto de la casa. And the best waiter. And the best meat man.

We're back in BsAs! Unfortunately, we came home to find we don't have any cold water. Makes for very interesting showers (ouch!) and flushing the toilet (gross). It's only been 2 days though, and the porter is here trying to figure out why we have hot water but no cold water. I'm crossing my fingers this is an easy fix.
Uruguay was absolutely amazing. We started off in Carmelo which is a tiny, sleepy town on the Rio de la Plata. We had a couple very relaxing days there... met 2 stray dogs that followed us around day and night.
From there we went to Colonia. Chico found a golf cart rental agency which he was absolutely ecstatic over. It was a great way to see the entire town. We stayed at the Hotel Colonial which I would highly recommend. It offered free bicycles, Internet access, comfortable rooms, great food and great people.
The next morning we made our way to Montevideo just in time for the quarter final football (or soccer for my American readers) game between Uruguay and Brazil. This was my first football match and I'm hooked (in fact, Chico and I are going to the La Boca match this weekend). The following day we decided to head into wine country as a suggestion from one of our guide books. We took a train (yes... there is a commuter train in Montevideo. We should have taken the fact that no one knew there was a commuter train as a sign, but we were determined to taste Uruguayan wine!!) We hopped on the train that surprisingly still ran considering it dated back to the 1920's with no updating whatsoever, and took the hour ride into Juanico. There are no signs alerting riders to what town they are in, so we found it out by asking the passengers several times at each stop (picture of Juanico above). We found the winery. We found the winery closed. We found a convenience store, bought 2 bottles of wine, and waited 5 hours for the train back to Montevideo.
The next day we decided to travel to Punta del Este, which is the playground for the rich during the hot summer season. It really is a beautiful city, but loud and the hostel we stayed at was full of 20-something boys who were on a week long drinking binge (not quite the scene we were looking for and so we checked out the following day).
From Punta del Este, we traveled north along the coast to La Paloma. We must have looked lost from our backpacks and both of us looking at the Lonely Planet for a map, because 2 Uruguayans stopped their car and asked if we needed help. They immediately called their friend for directions to the hotel for us and then asked if we would like to see the next town over (Las Piedras) with them once we got settled in. Later that afternoon, our friends picked us up and drove along the coast to Las Piedras. We walked along the beach and our friends practiced their English (no practice needed from what I could tell), and then stopped for a drink at a bar right on the ocean. They recommended dinner at a restaurant in town we might like. Oh. We did. It was run by 1 man who played the part of host, waiter, and chef. Chico had lomo and I had pasta. And it had FLAVOR! For anyone who might find themselves in La Paloma, visit La Choza for some great food. As we walked back to the hotel after dinner, we stumbled upon a fairly large drum circle and I decided I was going to live in La Paloma someday. We stayed 2 days there... sunning ourselves on the beach, drinking wine in the evening, relaxing and having a wonderful time.
Our porter just left. He was unable to find the problem with our water. I'm not sure if this means he will find someone else who may be able to help, or if we are just out of luck. Hmmm...

Monday, October 16, 2006

THE DISAPPEARANCE OF JORGE JULIO LOPEZ

As I was packing my bags for Uruguay this morning, I checked my cell phone and came across a text message I received last week and had meant to write a post about. Here is exactly what came across to me (and millions of others with an Argentine cell phone):

Todos buscamos a Jorge Julio Lopez, si sabes algo llama al 911 o al 0800-333-5502. Gobierno de la Pcia. de Buenos Aires.

Jorge Julio Lopez went missing September 18th, the night before the conviction of a police investigator he was testified against. He was a key witness for the prosecution on crimes committed during the Dirty War.

Here is a link to a CNN article on this story...

http://www.cnn.com/2006/WORLD/americas/09/27/argentina.warwitness.ap/index.html

Sunday, October 15, 2006

Wish List Part 2

1) Horseradish
2) Tomato juice
2) Cheese. Anything other than the white rubber that everything here is.
3) SPICE. I miss hot food!

Ok... I realize this entire post is about food. That's because I'm starving and looking over my grocery list of items that are impossible to find here.